Reading a tape measure (also called a measuring tape) is essential for all projects, from figuring out if that couch will fit in your place to building an actual whole house. 

From my 9+ years of woodworking experience, I’ll share a simple breakdown of how to read a tape measure so you feel more confident on your journey to start a skilled trade. 

If you don’t care about getting into a skilled trade but still want to learn how to read a tape measure, I promise this will benefit you too.

“I don’t know who needs to hear this but 3 inches and 5 ticks is not an actual measurement.” – quote from Reddit

How To read a tape measure without making mistakes

In this guide, I’ll show you simple and effective ways to read a tape measure accurately, even if you claim you’re not good at math. This is a beginner guide but I hope to hit something that all levels of trades experience can learn from. 

Get ready to measure up in no time. But seriously. You’ll learn to read a tape measure confidently, even if numbers aren’t your jam. 

If you’re in a skilled trade or considering getting in, you must develop this skill. It’s a non-negotiable. Build this skill using the steps below and over time, continue adding new skills to your tool belt. You’ll be doing something called “skill stacking” which will help you get into jobs and roles you never thought possible.
Reading a tape measure might sound very basic, but it’s really the foundation to becoming a trusted team member at any construction company. 

First, you gotta be able to execute the instructions given. “Hey, grab some 2×4’s and cut 40 pieces at 16 3/4” lengths.” 

Then you’ll move on one day to reading plans, and figuring out the cut list yourself. And then, as you progress, you’ll be able to start measuring out a job or project to create the plans yourself. And by then, maybe you’re on your way to owning your own business in one of the skilled trades.

What is a tape measure?

Before we get into the step-by-step, I’ll clarify what a tape measure is and what kind we’re talking about. If you’re not a beginner, feel free to skip over this section.

You’ve already seen the photos above. These are retractable tape measures commonly used in all kinds of skilled trades and construction professions. But also for plenty of DIY home uses. 

There are many more types of tape measures used in different industries and made of different materials but in this article, we’re talking about the cased tape measure with a blade made of steel, stainless steel or fiberglass and a catch hook at the end.

Tape measures most commonly use the imperial system (feet, inches) of measurement in North America but some use both the imperial and metric (meters, centimetres and millimetres) system of measurement (what Canada and the majority of the world use). We’ll talk about the imperial measurement system because it’s most commonly used in construction in Canada and the US. 

When the tape measure blade is stretched out, you’ll see tick marks, numbers, and various shapes. It can seem confusing at first but once we break it down, you’ll be able to interpret everything happening on the tape and feel confident measuring in no time. Including where to place the catch hook to measure accurately. 

A tape measure is a versatile tool that helps you measure distances with precision, ensuring that your project turns out just the way you want. Whether you’re working on a DIY project, renovating your home, or pursuing a career in carpentry, learning how to read a tape measure is essential. 

Reasons You Need to Know How to Read a Tape Measure

Precision: Accurate measurements are essential for ensuring that your project fits together perfectly. If you’re measurements are off, you’re very likely going to end up with pieces that won’t fit together.

Efficiency: Knowing how to read a tape measure saves you time by eliminating the need for guesswork or rework. 

Professionalism: Whether you’re a DIY enthusiast or a professional tradesperson, the ability to read a tape measure accurately reflects your expertise and attention to detail. If you’re working on any kind of job site, you will need to know how to comfortably and accurately read a tape measure if you’re going to last and progress in your career.

Confidence: Learning how to read a tape measure correctly will not only improve the quality of your work but also boost your confidence in tackling new projects and ultimately help you get a solid start in a variety of skilled trades. 

If I were teaching a young apprentice who has little to no experience with a tape measure, these are the step-by-step instructions I would use to help them read a tape measure like a seasoned carpenter.

Step-by-step instructions to read a tape measure

I’ll show you a unique process that focuses on simplifying the reading of a tape measure by breaking down measurements into easy-to-understand steps. I’ll emphasize visual cues and practical techniques that anyone can use. 

By incorporating real-world examples, guides, and photos, I’ll make learning how to read a tape measure both educational and enjoyable. Whether you’re measuring for a small craft project or a large-scale renovation, this approach will give you the skills and confidence you need to get the job done right.

Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you master this essential skill:

1. First Date with Your Tape: Get to know each other. Find out about the different parts of what makes your tape special. Explore the tape, housing, and hook.
2. Use the Tape’s Hook: Either push the tape hook against the edge of an object or securely hook it onto the edge of the object you’re measuring.
3. Acquainted with Whole Numbers: Identify the whole numbers on the tape measure, which represent inches or feet, depending on the unit of measurement.
4. Visualize the Inch: Divide the inch into halves, quarters, and eighths to read fractions quickly.
5. Identify Half and Quarter Marks: Look for longer marks indicating half and quarter inches.
6. Counting Lines: Count the tick marks the proper way.
7. Interpret Fractions: Look for the smaller markings between the whole numbers, which represent fractions of an inch or centimeter. Common fractions include 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, and 1/2.
8. Add and Subtract Measurements: Use the tape measure to add or subtract measurements easily. To add measurements, align the zero mark on the tape measure with the starting point of the first measurement, then read the total measurement at the endpoint. For subtraction, follow the same process but subtract the second measurement from the first.
9. Avoid Parallax Errors: Keep your eyes directly above the measurement for accurate readings.
10. Double-Check Measurements: Measure the same object twice to ensure accuracy. The more you practice, the more comfortable and proficient you’ll become.

Now that you know the basic steps, let’s get into each one in more detail.

Step 1: First Date with Your Tape

Get to know your tape measure. The tape is the retractable pieces of aluminum or steel with all the lines and numbers on it. The housing is the body of the tape measure that houses the tape. The hook is the metal end of the tape. There is also a belt hook that allows you to hook the tape on your belt or your pants. 

A quick safety consideration when you first start using a retractable tape. It’s spring loaded. Which means when you pull the tape out and let go, it’s going to wind back up into the housing quite quickly and can slam the tape hook into the housing. Or your hand if you’re not careful.

Work on bringing the tape in slowly applying some pressure with your hand to guide the tape back in. 

Almost all tape housings will have the measurement of length of the tape recorded on the bottom or back of the tape. So you can measure a distance from the end of the tape hook to the back of the tape’s housing. 

With this method, look at the measurement on your tape and add the length of the housing for your final measurement. 

Step 2: Using the Tape’s Hook

Become the captain of your ship and use that hook the way God intended. The tape hook is an often misunderstood piece of the measuring experience. The hook moves people! It is supposed to have a little “play”, a little “wiggle room”. 

Your tape is not broken. It was made to move.

The reason your tape hook slides back and forth is to compensate for the thickness of the hook. When you hook onto the edge of material and pull the tape housing back, it gets pulled to its longest position. 

Photo – Tape hooked on outside of material

When you extend the tape and push the outside of the tape hook against a surface to take a measurement, the hook is going to be in its shortest position.

Photo – Tape pushed against material

Here’s a video that shows exactly what this looks like in action…

Video??

Step 3: Acquainted with Whole Numbers

Identify the whole numbers on the tape measure. Those numbers beside the longest lines represent inches.

The other whole numbers represent feet. Twelve inches make up one foot. 

Step 4: Visualize the Inch and break it down

I’ve seen so much advice online to use your hand or fingers or feet to estimate measurements. Now, if there are no tape measures to be seen and that’s really your only option, sure. But I’m going to strongly suggest you don’t rely on that. 

Put your thumb in between two of the inch marks on a tape. Is that exactly an inch? Probably not. Over many inches, that measurement is going to end up way off. 

Instead, do this.

Look at this diagram of an inch. Now count the marks. Notice there are 15 lines in between the inch marks making 16 equal spaces.

The second longest line goes right down the center or halfway. That’s the ½ inch mark. The third longest lines break each of the halves into two to form ¼’s. So those are the ¼ inch marks.

The next shorter lines go halfway in between each of the ¼ inch marks to make ⅛’s.

And often the shortest lines on most tape measures are in between the ⅛ marks called 1/16’s.  

Some tapes have EVEN shorter lines wedged in between the 1/16th marks called 1/32’s. Most of the time the tape only has these marks on the first 12 inches of the tape or not at all. They’re generally used for fine woodworking uses where very detailed measurements are needed.

Here’s the whole inch shown with all the inch marks labelled. Next, I’ll show you how to quickly figure out how what your measure is without needing to refer to a diagram or counting all the tick marks.

Step 5: Simple Measurement Math – Breaking it down

Ok, so now what? 

You know what the lines say but decided you won’t rely on a diagram to tell you the measurements.

Let’s start with the basics of fractions because every measurement is a fraction.

1. Reduce Fractions (Measurements) to their simplest form

If the top number of a measurement (fraction) is an EVEN number, continue dividing it by 2 until it’s an odd number to get to the fraction’s simplest form. 

When you divide the top number (called the numerator), you have to divide the bottom number (called the denominator) by the same number.

Every measurement on a tape is in the proper or simplest form of the fraction. You cannot have measurements like 2/8 or 8/16. These numerators (top numbers) are even numbers and we must divide them to break them down into their proper form. 

Dividing by 2 always works because the tape measure’s bottom numbers (called the denominators) can always be divided by 2. (1/16, 1/8, 1/4, and 1/2)

Remember the top number needs to be an odd number for the measurement to be in its proper form. Either 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, or 15. This is so important!

2. How to avoid counting all the tick marks

Let’s start with the 1st tick mark. The 1/16th mark. That’s easy to count and quick. We’ll be counting through the 1-inch section to break it down.

But what about 2/16? Is that the right measurement? Nope – you got it. We can’t have 2 as the numerator because it’s an even number so we have to break it down. So we divide by 2.

Now we get ⅛. Is that correct? Yes. Our top number is odd so we know we got it into the simplest and proper form.

Now you can count all the 1/16 inch, 1/8 inch, or 1/4 inch lines on the tape to get your measurement. That IS a way to avoid reducing fractions, but it simply takes longer. 

So I’ll encourage those of you considering, entering, or already in a skilled trade to NOT rely on counting. By learning this method, you’ll see a measurement and know how to read it without needing to do any math in your head. 

The math we’re going through now really is just to know WHY the measurements are recorded as they are and HOW they got to their simplest form. 

The math is going to help you add and subtract measurements. But that’s for later on.

Let’s keep going.

What about the 3/16 mark? Yep – you nailed it. That’s already in its proper form because 3, the numerator is an odd number.

Next, we have the 4/16 mark. Is that proper? Nope. I see an even 4 in that numerator spot. So let’s break it down by dividing by 2. 

Now we get 2/8. Can we leave it there? Yeah, you’re getting this. We cannot. 2 is still an even number. So divide both the numerator and denominator by two again and we get 1/4.

Quick fraction tip: When dividing a number by itself, like 2/2 or 4/4 or 8/8 or 16/16, that always equals 1. Because 2 goes into itself 1 time. So the proper form of that fraction is a whole number, 1.

Next, we have the 5/16 mark. Yep – you nailed it again. That’s already in its proper form because 5, the numerator is an odd number.

Next, we have the 6/16 mark. Is that proper? No again. I see an even 6 in that numerator spot. 

So we break it down by dividing by 2. Both 6 and 16 are divisible by 2 so we then get 3/8. And there we have it! Now in its proper form.

Next, we have the 7/16 mark. Yep – you nailed it again. That’s already in its proper form because 7, the numerator is an odd number.

Next, we have the 8/16 mark. Is that proper? No again. I see an even 8 in that numerator spot. 

So we break it down by dividing by 2. Both 8 and 16 are divisible by 2 so we then get 4/8. But this time, we notice, hey the numerator of 4 is still an even number. 

So now we’re getting to the measurements that if we start by dividing by 2, they will require dividing multiple times. OR the quicker method is to think of the highest even number both the numerator and denominator divide into equally.

We know 2 works but we’re trying to reduce it one time. So let’s go higher to the next even number. Does 4 work? Well, looks like it does! We get 2/4. But you’re catching on here and know that hey, this measurement still isn’t in its proper form. We gotta reduce. 

So we’re back to 8/16 and think, hey let’s skip 6 because I easily know that doesn’t fit into 8. 

Now we’re at dividing by 8 and well now it seems obvious. Of course, I can divide both of these numbers by 8.

You did it. We now have ½”.

So INSTEAD of counting all the tick marks up to a measurement like 9/16, you think hey I know that the half-inch mark is 8/16 so one more of the smallest tick has to be 9/16.

Or you’re looking at the 5/8 mark. You now know that 1/2 also is 4/8 so one more 1/8 mark is 5/8.

Step 6: Counting Lines (More like an alternative step that builds off of Step 5 – so read that first!)

If you desperately need to count the number of lines of a measurement – use this quicker method to avoid needing to reduce fractions all together

Look at the line on your tape measure that your measurement mark is hitting. Is it hitting the shortest line, 2nd shortest, third shortest, or longest? 

Simply count how many lines from the beginning of the whole inch number.

You count every line of the same length or longer – but DO NOT count the lines that are shorter than the one your measurement is lining up with.

For example, if your measurement is hitting one of the shortest lines after the 8 inch mark, count how many lines come after the 8 to find out how many 16ths your measurement is. If you count out 7 lines total, your measurement is going to be 8 and 7/16 inches.

If you end up counting 8/16 or 10/16, you know that because the top number is even, you shouldn’t be counting the shortest line (1/6ths). Your measurement is lining up with one of the second or third shortest lines. Try again and count only that length of line or longer. Don’t count any lines that are shorter than your measurement mark.

Another shortcut is to remember that the ½ inch mark = 2 – ¼’s, 4 – ⅛’s, and 8 – 1/16’s. So if your measurement is past the half inch mark, you can have a head start in counting lines by starting halfway.

Step 7: Add and Subtract Measurements – Two Ways

On top of learning how to perform single measurements, you’ll need to learn how to add and subtract measurements too. 

First Method:

The easiest way to add and subtract measurements on a tape measure is using a simple trick carpenters have used for a long time. 

Say you have a measurement of 31 ½” and need to add 11 ⅛” to it. 

1. Locate the 31 ½” measurement on your tape
2. Fold your tape in half
3. Locate the 11 ⅛” mark and line it up with the 31 ½” mark

Now look at the end of your tape measure (outside edge of the tape hook) to see what measurement it lines up with

If you got 42 ⅝”, you nailed it!

Now the reverse. Let’s look at subtraction.

Let’s use the same measurements of 41” minus 5”. 

1. Locate the 41” measurement on your tape
2. Fold your tape in half
3. Locate the end of your tape measure (outside edge of the tape hook) and line it up with the 41” mark
4. Now look at the 5” mark to see what measurement it lines up with on the other side of the tape
5. If you got 36”, you nailed it!

To add and subtract if both your measurements are less than 18 inches, it is easier to use a separate ruler or second tape measure instead of folding your tape measure in half. You will have a tough time folding the tape to line up the shorter measurements. At some point it won’t be possible. 

Second Method:

The second way to add measurements is going back to high school math fraction equations. But this first one is still more of a counting method. I’ll dive deeper into the math in the alternative method after. 

You should already know about numerators and denominators from above. Now it’s time to add and subtract. Here’s one example to get you started.

Let’s add 4 3/16 in to 7 1/2 in.

1. First, we add 4 + 7 and get 11 inches
2. Next we add the 3/16 and 1/2 

One of the quickest methods to add these two fractions is to find the 11” mark on your tape measure and then add the 1/2” from the 7 1/2″ measurement. 

So you’re at 11 1/2″. 

Next you count 3/16 from that point. You now have 11 11/16” for your total measurement.

Alternatively, you can do fraction math. This method will take a bit longer and is tougher for most people to do in their heads. 

3/16 + 1/2 = ?/?

When adding fractions, you take the lowest denominator (bottom number) which is 2 in this case. And multiply it so that it is equal to the other denominator 16. 

To go from 2 to 16, you multiply the 2 by 8. 

2 x 8 = 16

And when you multiply the bottom, you must multiply the top number (numerator) by the same number.

1 x 8 = 8

So now you have 3/16 and 8/16. Now you can add them because they have the same denominator. 

So now we have 11/16. 

We already know from the previous method that 4 in + 7 in = 11 inches so we now have 11 11/16 as our final measurement.

To subtract, we do something similar. Let’s stick with the same measurements but subtract the larger from the smaller. 

7 1/2 in – 4 3/16 in = ?/?

7 – 4 = 3 inches (easy peasy)

But what about 1/2 in minus 3/16?

Well, we first make the 1/2 have the same denominator as 3/16. 

Again, multiply the 2 by 8 to get 16 and multiply the top number by 8 as well. We now have 8/16 and can subtract the two fractions since they both have the same denominator.

8/16 – 3/16 = 5/16

There you have it! Well done.

Step 8: Avoid Parallax Errors

Parallax errors simply mean that your eyes won’t be able to properly read a measurement if you’re looking at it from an angle. Keep your eyes directly in front of the measurement for accurate readings.

Ensure the tape measure is at eye level for an accurate reading.

A simple example from a different world is measuring ingredients for cooking or baking. Take a glass measuring cup and fill it with water up to the 1 cup mark. If you don’t ensure you’re looking at the 1 cup mark at eye level, your measurement is most likely going to be off. 

Same goes for reading a tape measure. Say you have measure the height of a wall. You know that trying to read your tape measure markings way above your head is going to create a parallax error because of the angle you’re looking at the tape. So what else could you try?

Here’s one alternative method to avoid it. 

You can measure from the floor to around your eye level, make a mark, and record the measurement. We’ll say 5’ 5”. Then measure from the ceiling to that mark (3’ 7”) and add up the two measurements. 

5ft 5in +  3ft 7in = 9 ft

Step 9: Double-Check Measurements

A final and very important step. Measure twice to avoid errors. Errors are costly. You waste time and if you cut too short, you can waste valuable material. Maybe you only have so much molding and now you’ve cut your last piece too short. Uh oh. 

That means a trip back to the supplier and that’s if they have it in stock. Plus you might be making additional work for the painter who needs to paint or stain a piece that is now already installed.

With double-checking comes practice. The more you practice, the more comfortable and proficient you’ll become. You’ll feel more confident, you’ll work smarter, and you’re going to be a more reliable team member.

Then you’ll be the one messing with the new apprentices, telling them to go find the “wood stretcher” when they cut something too short…  

Key Considerations For Successfully Reading a Tape Measure

One thing I haven’t mentioned yet are the shape markings on the tape. 

The most obvious ones are the big arrows that are right on top of the 12”, 24”, 36” measurements and so on. These mark your feet measurements. Every 12 inches will add up to an additional foot. Sometimes the tape will have a different colour line or an arrow to mark off each foot.

A more hidden one is the little diamond or triangle mark you’ll see every so often along the tape. These are every 19ft 3/16in and mark off the common distance between floor joists in home construction. 

Every 16 inches, you’ll generally see a highlighted number with arrows. This marks the center point of studs in framing up walls of a house.

It’s important to know what these mean and how to use them, especially in residential construction. I’ve only ever used the 16” stud markings on a tape while doing finish carpentry in homes. But often to supplement, I would use a stud finder to ensure I was really getting a stud behind the drywall.

Taking it to the Next Level: How to read a tape measure like a pro

Carpenters, woodworkers, and contractors use their tape measures a lot. Let’s get you on your way to using it to its fullest potential. Or at least knowing how in case you need to use a lesser-known feature. You’ll feel even more confident on the job site. 

• The tape hook can notch onto nail and screw heads. The space in between the two metal teeth of the hook is designed so you can fix the tape hook onto a screw or nail and measure from that spot.

• Draw a quick circle by notching the tape hook on a nail or screw. Place your screw in the centre of the circle and notch the tape hook on the screw. Pull your tape out to your desired radius (halfway across the circle or the diameter) and secure your pencil against the tape and the housing, touching down on your material. Then spin the tape around the screw, drawing your circle. Here’s a quick 2 minute video showing you how.  

• Get a head start counting lines past the half inch mark. A key shortcut is to remember that the ½ inch mark = 2 – ¼’s, 4 – ⅛th’s, and 8 – 1/16th’s. So if your measurement is past the half inch mark, you can have a head start in counting lines by starting halfway.

• Secure the tape in an extended position without the tape lock. Something I learned from my dad was to press my pointer finger against the underside of the tape where it meets the housing to hold it in place. This is a quick lock to keep the tape from sliding back into the housing while you mark your measurement with your other hand. 

• Get to know your tape’s “standout” limit. Standout simply means the length of tape you can have pulled out of the casing parallel to the ground before the tape “breaks” or bends from gravity. This is important to know for your tape so you can confidently measure distances while on a ladder or reaching across a span where you can’t stand. 

• How to measuring a wide wall span that “breaks” the tape. Sometimes you need to measure a long span of wall and your tape keeps “breaking”. One tip is to start your measurement pushing the hook against one wall. 

Then keep pinning the tape against the wall as you pull out more and more tape to measure the entire span. You’ll need to press the tape hard against the wall so it doesn’t move too much. This is really only suitable for rough measurements. 

And here are some more common use cases of a tape measure with simple instructions.

How to measure in between two walls

Note that the wall by the floor and the wall by the ceiling and everywhere in between can and usually do have different measurements. It’s a pain. I know. Walls are almost never completely straight because of either a bend in the 2×4’s while framing or other issues. 

So measure the distance between the walls where you actually will install the moulding or whatever your purpose is.

1. Bending the tape method

• Pull out the tape measure and butt the hook against one wall 
• It’s easiest to let the tape run along the floor if nothing is in the way
• If you need to, the tape is designed to stay rigid and extended in the air for various lengths depending on the material and width of the blade
• Keep the tape pressed against the wall while extending the tape until you have more than enough to reach your other wall
• Bend the tape blade so that the fold or bend is against the corner of the wall you’re measuring
• This will give you a close measurement but it takes a lot of practice to get the measurement more accurate

I honestly used this method the most while installing moldings around staircases. It’s quick and generally accurate enough to get the measurement accurate on the first try. But it took practice. And there were times I would end up cutting a length of molding too short.

2. Measuring from both sides to mark the middle method

• The more accurate (and slightly longer) method is to measure from one wall to somewhere in the middle – doesn’t matter where
• Make a mark and record the measurement
• Measure from the other wall to that mark
• Add up the two measurements to get your final one

Measure the inside distance of a cabinet

• Pull out more than enough tape for the length you need and hold the tape in place with your pointer finger pushing against the underside OR using the lock
• Push catch hook against one inside edge of the cabinet so only half the width of the hook is against the cabinet gable and the other half is in the open air

• With your hand that isn’t holding the tape measure casing, hold the blade of the tape to maintain the pressure of the catch hook against the cabinet wall using your free hand 
• Bring the tape blade towards the other side of the cabinet until it’s touching the gable piece
• Now read the inside measurement of the cabinet

OR if you want to make sure you’re getting the most accurate measurement, you can do a very similar method but “burn an inch” at the start. 

• Instead of pushing the catch hook against the inside of the cabinet, you will hold the 1 inch marking against the inside edge of the cabinet wall and then proceed with the same instructions as above.
• But you will need to add one inch to the final measurement because you’re starting at one inch (1”) instead of zero.

Wrapping Up and My Experience With Reading a Tape Measure

I used a tape measure almost every day of the week for 9+ years while working with my dad in his shop and on job sites. My encouragement, if you’re considering getting into the skilled trades, is to pick one up today and practice using it. 

Especially if this is all brand new to you. Or if there was a lot in this article that you haven’t heard or done before. 

If you’re looking for advice on what tape measure you should buy, I’ll give some suggestions on the FAQ section based on what type of work they’re more suited for. 

You might be here because you’re wondering what working in a woodworking shop is like. You might be looking to start or grow a business in one of the many skilled trades. My real hope is that something from my experience and lessons sticks. That it inspires you to think slightly differently or learn something new about yourself that you can take with you.

If you feel inclined, I end the article with an ode to a regular workday at the shop in my early 20s. A creative writing exercise to get my reflection brain going. You may notice from my writing that I don’t have any inner thoughts or dialogue. In part, because I can’t remember what I was thinking about but also to give you, my friend, space to imagine.

5 Things I Learned Working in the Skilled Trades (For My Dad)

1. How to organize your workspace where all tools are accessible

My dad was orderly but not obsessive about it. He was particular about things being in the same place but did not need a space to look immaculate. As long as the functionality was there, he seemed content. 

That rubbed off on me. I like having predictable places for tools I work with and it’s disruptive when they’re not. 

In my dad’s shop, there were three of us working the most years so we each had our own workbench station. I got the opportunity to build my own when I was working for my dad full-time. It was quite basic as we didn’t need functionality for fine woodworking projects but it did give me more pride and ownership over the space. My workbench was on the other side of the one shown in the photo.

Tools in the space:

• F-Clamps, lots of them. Generally 2 milk crates full
• Tape Measure
• Torpedo level
• Mid size level
• Square
• Putty and Putty knife
• Dust Mask
• Safety Glasses
• Ear Muffs
• Makita Drill
• Makita Impact driver
• Nail gun with spare nails 
• Air blow gun
• Titebond Wood glue
• Wood screws in various lengths
• Collection of Chisels – one old one that could be used for grunt work
• Hammer
• Extension cords
• Sand paper of various grits
• Orbital sander
• Belt sander
• Trim Router

Each of these had a spot I could grab and use within reach of my workbench.

2. Ownership (Part 1 and 2)

Ownership – Part 1

There’s a major difference between working for someone else and owning a business. When you’re an employee, you are completely fine with leaving work for the next day. Even if it means driving back to a job site 45 minutes away.

1. One massive shift in ownership is focusing on time, cost, and profit. Because your decisions make a massive impact.
2. Let me paint a common scenario working with my dad:
   1. Let’s say my dad and I generally worked until 4 pm to hit 8 hours. We’re on day 4 of a new house in West Vancouver (45 – 60 min drive from home) installing the railings and stair treads. It’s hitting 3:30 pm and we know there are still at least 2 hours left before the job is complete. You can bet there is going to be a phone call home to Mom saying, we’ll be late for dinner. 
3. I learned about ownership by soaking in my dad’s decision-making, his words, his actions. Experiencing it through someone else versus actually owning something yourself is entirely different. But it gave me a taste and I haven’t been able to forget it.

I’ve learned that ownership starts and ends with you. That means you’re dealing with sales, doing the work, customer service, invoicing, collecting payment, ordering supplies and materials, tracking finances, ensuring you have enough money to cover expenses, and so much more. 

With the challenges comes an upside. There is the freedom to spend time how you need or want and you never have to ask a boss for time off. With that freedom comes a weight of responsibility. But you have the power to choose. 

Ownership – Part 2

I started working for my dad in elementary school. We headed to his shop the occasional evening or Saturday when he had to work. My older sister and I would clean off the sawdust from the machinery and sweep it into piles. Then we scooped it up and put it in the scrap bin.

One memory from one of those nights is etched in my memory. I was sweeping and was on a roll. I wasn’t the fastest at sweeping but I was meticulous. Well, that level of detail brought me a little too close to a group of standing stair railing posts. They were either just assembled or had been stained/painted and were standing to dry.

I swept too close to them and bumped (at least) one of them over. I don’t remember what kind of damage it caused. But I do remember that my dad made me apologize to my uncle (my dad’s brother worked with him at the time) the next time I saw him.

The lesson that stuck with me on that day was one of ownership. Take ownership of the mistakes you’ve made, even the unintentional ones. So nothing remains hidden, even if the mistake is embarrassing. First of all, you will gain respect, even if it doesn’t feel like it at the moment. You will be trusted more. 

From that day on, many more and worse mistakes were made working with my dad that cost him money and time. I’m sure he felt it. He was the owner, he bore the cost. And sometimes he got upset but never stayed that way. The slate was wiped clean each time. I never owed him anything because of those mistakes. What a gift to be shown that kind of grace. 

That taught me to be more gracious with other’s mistakes. Not perfect, but more.

3. How to get more projects booked

Now you might think I’m going to be talking about some kind of fancy Marketing strategy here. But that is not at all what I learned watching my dad.

My dad did not do much marketing beyond having a business card to hand out and he was searchable on Google. All those years, he never had a website (still to this day).

Want to know the keys to how busy he has been over the years? It’s simple. He took enough time to ensure the project was done with excellence. Every single time. He made sure the project was built solid, and that it looked amazing. 

The second key was HOW he worked. When builders asked for a timeline, my dad stuck to it. And if he couldn’t, he let them know early. 

He priced fairly, always completed the job, and showed up when he said he would. He was reliable and easy to work with. Once he worked for a new builder, he often got the rest of their projects. And often he would get referral phone call inquiries too. Even other trades would refer him to a builder because of how he worked on job sites and the quality of his work.

4. How to use Tools

As a child, when my dad worked around the house, I was always right there, wanting to help, wanting to hold and use the tool.

When my dad mowed the lawn, I’d be outside wanting to push.

When he was hammering nails, I needed to hold a hammer and hit some nails too.

When he was drilling holes or screwing something together, I wanted in.

I got early exposure and access to tools in childhood. And so much more experience working with my dad. This has been an amazing gift in my life. Because now I have the foundational skill and experience of working in a skilled trade. That will never leave. 

It gives me another option to provide for my family. It gives me the foundation to make different pieces of furniture. And to perform renovation projects on a home one day.

Most tools were common woodworking tools but even that has been so helpful. I am confident knowing I can take some lumber and turn it into something that I’ve seen or can imagine in my mind.

5. How to problem solve (and persist when something is difficult)

I saw my dad do this so many times out of necessity. One project I remember in particular. He was building an outdoor kitchen in our shop that would end up in the Okanagan. He would draw up a plan by hand and then start building. 

Inevitably, there would be obstacles and decisions to make along the way. Maybe pieces weren’t quite fitting the way or in the order he had planned on paper. He was never phased. There was always a way to make it work and make it look amazing. 

Beyond learning to problem solve, one of the byproducts of watching my dad was how to handle hard things. 

Some things came easily to me growing up. Like sports. I mean I worked at it but it felt easier than most things because I was having fun. Compare that with learning high school math. That was challenging for me for a few reasons. But the main point is that it was something hard that I would tend to give up on or do the bare minimum. 

I would say, “Well I’m not like those other kids who are good at math. I’m only good at sports, working with tools, etc.” I centered my identity around what was easier (for me) and in skills I had already built a solid foundation.

Out of high school, I kept working for my dad until I started itching for something more. He had suggested studying business a few times. I think with some hope that I would join him and help him on that side of his business. 

I was not confident heading into College. But after committing to a two-year Business diploma, I pushed and saw it through. I did something that I thought I wouldn’t be good at and persevered. I was learning how to embrace intellectual challenges and push through. And this growing ability did end up propelling me on to complete a four-year Business Degree.

A lot of that pushing and perseverance came from working with my dad. He encountered obstacles in projects or in the business itself. Watching him figure out a way through was inspiring. 

If I’m being honest, it makes me emotional. Thinking about some of those challenging periods where he wasn’t sure how to go on. Where deadlines were too tight and we had to work evenings and weekends to get a project out the door. When shop work was slow and the revenue wasn’t covering those bills. I imagine my dad questioning in his mind, “Is this still worth it? How am I going to do this?” The emotion of those moments is still palpable.

These experiences working with my dad built my character over the years. To get a better sense of the type of projects I worked on over the years, I thought I’d go WAY back to the early years.

Experience in the Trades

It started with sweeping my dad’s wood shop in elementary school. Some evenings and weekends, we would head to the shop after dinner when my dad had to work and sweep up all the sawdust left behind. As I got to high school, I began working with him in summers and on spring break.

I loved the change of pace of the Summers working with my hands and with my dad. By June, I was through with sitting in classrooms all day. I was itching to get outside, to move, to work with my hands for a change. 

My experience working in the skilled trades with my dad has been an amazing gift. I kept working with him after high school for a few years before dropping to part-time work so I could go through college.

Here’s a summary of what kind of projects I worked on either with my dad or on my own.

Installing Stair Railings

1. Included wrapping posts for some decoration. Woah fancy.
2. A lot of cutting spindles, either metal spindles on the metal band saw or wood spindles on job sites.
3. An absurd amount of installing kickboard, baseboard, and trim mouldings. Here I learned how to match wood grain.
4. Getting the spindles itemized, alphabetized, and jazzercised for installation.
5. Once we installed the posts, I cut the railings to length and then attached them to the post.
6. Installing wall rails. Because safety.
7. Installing stair risers, and shoes/caps. Because stairs gotta dress up nice too.
8. Glue-ups and installing curved railings. Mostly fun because you’re playing with so much glue and then you race to get the clamps tightened before the glue sets.
9. A fun one I worked on was installing a balcony rail as part of my church’s renovation project of an old chapel.

Custom bulk food cabinets for grocery stores

We got a lot of work from a company that sold bulk food bins and cabinet systems to grocery stores to help improve their sales. So we built most of the bulk food cabinets out of plywood or MDF with melamine. Here’s a list of some of the major grocery stores in Canada that installed our cabinets in their bulk food sections.

1. Sobeys
2. Safeway
3. SaveOn Foods
4. Thrifty Foods
5. And several smaller chains

During the Sobey’s era, there were hundreds of cabinets we needed to build. We needed to grow our team of four. So my dad hired at least four more guys to help prepare the parts and assemble the cabinets. Now that was a buzzing atmosphere.

Skimboards

1. For at least two Spring/Summer seasons I made skimboards. I glued, laminated, cut, and sanded all the skimboards for a Canadian company, Kayotics. Even though it was repetitive, I loved it. I was already into skimboarding and had made a few boards myself. 
2. Making skimboards meant we needed a vacuum press with a custom-built table. Now I was able to make some skimboards and longboards for myself. Can’t seem to find a skimboard photo but below is the side profile of one of the longboards I made with the vacuum press.

Fireplace Mantles

My dad used to build these all the time. Build fireplace mantles out of MDF or maple-veneered plywood and then install them. It was not complicated, but somewhat intricate. I generally would just look at one of the sample mantles already built and copy it. A lot of gluing, nailing, filling nail holes, and sanding to get it ready to install.

Other projects

Fire hydrant storage huts

2. A bed frame for my wife and I. Fun to build but I would do things a lot different now. This one was mostly out of plywood we already had at the shop.

Helped demo and build a deck on an unrelated summer job one Summer in Toronto

Much of the demolition and renovation work in a Toronto condo

1. Installed kitchen cabinets
2. Installed trim and baseboard
3. Installed laminate flooring

My wife’s engagement ring box crafted out of purple heart wood

This ring box was created with some very simple woodworking but I was glad it worked so well!

Psssst. The ode is next. But if you want to skip, no hard feelings. You can head straight past to dive into some of my final reflections.

An Ode to Working in the skilled trades

Jolted out of bed at 6 am by my cantankerous alarm, I notice the glow of the sunrise. 

I stretch. I rise. I yawn.

My dad’s already up, eating homemade buns and drinking instant coffee. With a solitary drop of milk.

I grab two buns and warm them in the oven. Peanut butter and honey next. I don’t drink coffee yet. 

We start the 10-minute drive around 6:45 am.

Unlock the door. Shop lights on. I wander to the corner and flick the compressor on. The silence breaks as the motor fills the warehouse. 

Today is a cutting day. I grab the cut list from the boss, Dad. He heads to his office for the morning. These bulk food cabinets will be made of 5/8” plywood with laminate. 

Forklift time. I take a look at where the lift of plywood is sitting. Need to move a lift of 1/2 inch melamine off the top first.

I lift the forks above my head and ease them under the melamine. I pull the lever to lift. Reverse, turn, clear the rest of the lifts stacked, lower, and stop. Hop out and grab some blocking supports for the stacks of wood. Make sure there are three lined up on the floor where the melamine is going to sit.

Lower the lift, reverse. Lift forks, forward under the plywood, lift, reverse. Forward toward the saw. After resting the plywood on the blocking beside the saw, it’s time to cut. 

The gable length is 80” tall. I make a mark on the plywood. I mark off 16” and set the saw fence to cut off 16” to get the 80” length I need. 

I grab the 4 by 8 sheet of plywood, spin and drag it into position. Pause for a breath. Ear muffs on. Eye protection with kicks and scratches on. Now peering through knicks and scratches, it’s go time. I flick the saw switch on. The blade whirs to life.

I put my 150 pounds into the piece of plywood to get it moving. The sliding table helps. Widening my grip, I push at an angle forward and to my right to keep the plywood tight on the saw fence. Let the ripping begin. 

After the first cut, I push the 16” piece away from the blade. Walking between the plywood waiting to be cut and the table saw, my tool companion for the day, I grab the now 4” x 80” piece of wood and lift it on end. I slide my right hand underneath and hoist it up, holding the opposite top side with my left. I heft it back around the lift, bend, grunt, and place it on a dolly. Then back around to grab the 16” cut and lean it up against the racks of wood near the saw. 

Cut piles are growing. By coffee break, those stacks will have reached their peak. Then ripped again into their useful sizes. Only to move to their next station, and worked on again to become useful members of their new cabinet home. 

Today is a cutting day. Lift, push, cut, pull, lift, lower, and lift again. 

Reflections

Working in the skilled trades with my dad is an experience I’ll always be grateful for.

I love that I was able to spend all that time with my dad in high school and three years post-high school. Time spent driving to work, job sites, suppliers, and back home again. Time spent on job sites, and in the shop. Learning and growing in discipline, hard work, planning, and thinking. Learning how to match grain, use tools, and make a straight edge on the table saw.

My experience of woodworking with my dad has shaped me and I’m uncovering even more ways, with each new season of life. It taught me to think creatively, to problem solve, and to figure out solutions quickly. That has been a tremendous help as I transitioned to the world of Marketing and Fundraising for a non-profit. It’s helped me have the confidence that I can learn new skills.

• Like building a website.
• Or writing compelling website copy that tells the story of your business.
• Like running fundraising campaigns that have generated over $500K since 2018.
• Or how to craft compelling fundraising emails and letters that connect with donors and convert.

And now I want to help you get some of those same benefits of starting a career or starting and operating a business in the skilled trades. So while I’m writing and building out startskilledtrades.com, I’m also helping construction and trades business owners start and scale their businesses with Copywriting + Marketing Strategy services at andrewwarkentin.com, my marketing agency site (under construction). In the meantime, feel free to email andrew@andrewwarkentin.com to get in touch.

If you’re starting a construction business or already own one, here are some ways I can help you right now:

1. Content Marketing – Apply the right content levers to help you reach your ideal customer and land your ideal jobs while recruiting your ideal team.
2. Source and Write Client Testimonials – that get you more business even if you’re just starting
3. Brand Guide – to help you always put your best voice forward no matter who’s in charge of social or website content
4. Website Copy – to help you describe what you do and how you solve your reader’s main problems so they’re ready to become a client
5. Project Descriptions – to help showcase your best project work on your site to “sell” your services without selling

You’re likely here because you have an idea for a woodworking project and want to know what kind of clamps you’ll need. Sometimes it’s a matter of just making the best of the clamps around but from experience, having the right clamp for the project can help you avoid painful experiences and finish the project more quickly and with greater quality.

We’re going to take a look at the variety of clamps out there and help you quickly choose the best woodworking clamps for the projects you have in mind. We’ll go through the 15 best clamps from the most common to more specialty clamps and also give you the best woodworking clamp pick for each.

1. Best Parallel Jaw (K-Body) Clamp: 2 Pair – 24-inch Bessey Parallel Clamps
2. Best Bar Clamp: 2 Pair – 24” Jorgensen Bar Clamp
3. Best F-Clamp: Bessey General Purpose Clamp
4. Best Clutch Style Clamp: 4 Pack Bessey Clutch Clamps
5. Best Pipe Clamp: 2 Pack Pony Jorgensen Pipe Clamp Fixture
6. Best Spring Clamp: Workpro 16-Piece Nylon Spring Clamp Set
7. Best C-Clamp: Pony 6-in C-Clamp Set
8. Best Quick-Action Clamp: DEWALT Bar Clamp, Large Trigger, 36-Inch
   • Bonus Option: Bessey RES01 Clamp Set, General Purpose Trigger Clamps, 2 x 6 In. (100 lb) and 2 x 12 In. (300 lb)
9. Best Corner Clamp: PONY 2-Piece 90 Degree Corner Clamp Set
10. Best Wood Handscrew Clamp: Dubuque Wooden Jaw Hand screw Clamp
11. Best Band or Strap Clamp: BESSEY 23 ft Variable Angle Strap Clamp with 4 Clips
12. Best Toggle Clamp: BESSEY Horizontal Auto-Adjust Toggle Nickel Plated Clamp
13. Best Bench Clamp: Yost Vises Rapid Action Woodworking Vise with Quick Release Lever
14. Best Face Clamp: Kreg KHC3 Kreg Wood Project Clamp with Automaxx, 3 Inch
15. Best Spreader Clamp: Jorgensen 24″ One Hand Clamp/Spreader – 2-pack

The 15 Best Woodworking Clamps

When choosing the best woodworking clamp for your project, there are a few key factors that will help guide your decision making like: 

• Budget
• Quality
• Durability
• Use case

We’ll help you narrow down your options and help you quickly make the best choice for you. But most importantly, we’ll get you enough information to get the best woodworking clamps picked out fast so you can get going with your project. 

1. Parallel Jaw (K-Body) Clamp

Parallel Jaw (or K-Body) clamps are useful for 90 degree clamping in a variety of lengths. Often used for gluing up wide panels, parallel jaw clamps have flat faces on each clamp jaw that are parallel with each other so you can apply even pressure. I’ve used parallel clamps for glue ups and for assembling many cabinet units over the years and they are so helpful and easy to use. 

Some other benefits are that many brands have clamp stands that allow the clamp to sit firmly and parallel to the table or floor while adding your wood to clamp on top of the flat surface of the bars. And because of the flat outside edge of the fixed jaw, often you can stand them upright on the ground to save table space while the glue is drying from glue-ups. 

Our Pick

Bessey 50-inch Parallel Clamps – 2 Pair

In a manufacturing woodworking shop setting, these Bessey Parallel clamps have withheld many years of use, being banged around, dropped, and still keep on working. We mostly used the 48-inch versions and longer because the cabinets we were building required the length. The shorter options still may be worth it for some but you can still clamp smaller projects with a large clamp. You just need more space so take that into account.

Check Price on Amazon

Source: Bessey

Pros

1. Very durable
2. Wide throat depth 3-3/4-Inch for a solid hold
3. Amazing clamping force 1,500 pounds to help with any warped boards

Cons

1. A bit pricey
2. Over time, jaw opening mechanism can get a bit sticky with wear

Bonus Tip!

There is an option to buy a clamp extender that allows you to join two of the Bessey Parallel Clamps together giving you a way longer clamping range. It does take some time to set up but gives you the option to go long!

2. Bar Clamp

Bar clamps are often used to clamp boards for edge gluing. They are super versatile and over the years, I’ve loved using them to hold any pieces of wood together that I’ve just glued or if I’m going to be nailing or screwing any pieces together. These lightweight clamps are great to use with one hand so you can easily clamp something in place that you’re holding with your other hand. They come with protective pads to help secure and protect your work. They are a lighter-duty clamp and cannot produce as much clamping force as other types such as parallel or pipe clamps.

Note that when you search “bar clamp” online, you get results ranging from Pipe Clamps, to F-Clamps, to aluminum adjustable bar clamps, to Parallel bar clamps, to the ones I’m showing here which are the quick release style of bar clamps. 

Our Pick

Our Pick

Jorgensen Bar Clamp 24″ – 2 Pair

My main experience with these types of bar clamps have been from the Irwin brand. From that experience and online reviews, it appears that between the Irwin, Jorgensen, Bessey, and Dewalt versions of this clamp, you don’t have too much difference. The reason the Jorgensen Bar Clamp edged out the others for me was because of being able to join two clamps to extend your clamp reach. It’s a feature that really enhances the versatility of the clamp, especially if you’re just getting started building up a collection.

Check Price on Amazon

Source: Jorgensen

Pros

1. Two clamps can join to make a clamp with double the opening for larger projects
2. Can be easily converted to use as a spreader clamp to pull pieces apart
3. Quick release trigger

Cons

1. Not as strong as parallel or pipe clamps for glue ups

Bonus Options

Since Bar Clamps is more of a generic term that hits a wider range of clamps, I’ve linked some other top choices for other styles of bar clamps below for quicker reference. I have not taken the time to personally research these so do your own due diligence. Some of these styles are bonus ones not covered in this list of 15 best clamps.

Aluminum Bar Clamp

• Dubuque Clamp Works UC948 48″ Adjustable Bar Clamp for Woodworking – 4-PACK
• Jorgensen 48-in Aluminum Bar Clamp

Sliding Arm Bar Clamp

• Bessey 013-GS30K Sliding Arm Bar Clamp, 12″ Opening, 5-1/2 Throat Length

Parallel Bar Clamp

• 2 Pair – 24-inch Bessey Parallel Clamps

Clutch Style F-Clamp

• 4 Pack Bessey Clutch Clamps

3. F-Clamp

F Clamps are your classic clamps that have longer reach than a C-clamp for clamping a wider range of material. By far, I have used this type of clamp the most in my 7+ years of woodworking experience. In the shop and on jobsites, these clamps were used to hold stair railings in place to attach, for clamping stops to a mitre saw table, to curved stair railing glue ups. My dad and I always had at least one box of these in the van for any site work. 

They are available in different lengths and are easy to adjust and use to hold your project securely in place. Because of their lower price point, you can generally afford to have more F-clamps around to help with getting projects done more quickly and conveniently. Most come with protective pads to protect your project from scratches or indents and to prevent slipping. As far as the best woodworking clamps to own, these are honestly my top pick.

Our Pick

Our Pick

Bessey General Purpose Clamp

Working with my dad, we’ve been using a similar clamp as the Bessey brand F Clamp for over 30 years. The clamps we’ve used actually say W Germany on it and are very likely very old Bessey clamps. Some eventually warped from being tossed, banged, and tightened, likely beyond their max capacity. But many have remained straight (or straight enough) to continue working just as well as when they were brand new. In my experience, these are the clamps I always had within reach wherever I was working whether it was in the shop or on the job site. One of the best clamps for woodworking that last a long time.

Check Price on Amazon

Source: Bessey

Pros

1. 330 pounds of clamping force
2. Serrated rail for slip resistant grip
3. Protective pads to prevent damage to material

Cons

1. Not as much clamping force as some other brands
2. Rail made from die cast zinc which may not last as long as steel

4. Clutch Style Clamp

The Clutch Clamp is very similar to the F Style. The only difference is that the clutch clamp’s mechanism for clamping is a spring loaded clutch plate that keeps the sliding jaw in place. I can see this being useful for use cases where you’re needing to use one hand to tighten the clamp. The clutch plate would keep the jaw in place instead of dropping due to gravity like on a regular F clamp. Like F-Clamps, most Clutch style clamps come with protective pads to protect your project from scratches or indents and to prevent slipping. 

Our Pick

Our Pick

Bessey ClutcH Clamps – 4 Pack

I like the 4 pack Bessey Clutch Clamp set because they come highly rated and come with a set of 6-inch and a set of 12-inch clamps. Personally, I’ve never used this style of clamp but they would have been so useful to have the sliding jaw stuck in place for certain projects. The F-Clamp can be somewhat finicky to use, especially when you’re trying to clamp with the sliding jaw at the bottom and the jaw wants to drop to the end of the bar with gravity.

Check Price on Amazon

Source: Bessey

Pros

1. Clutch plate keeps sliding jaw in place
2. Fairly priced for set of 4 clamps
3. 2 clamp size options for more versatility

Cons

1. On the heavier side when using with one hand
2. Not easy to slide moving jaw with one hand

Bonus: Bessey Clutch Style Single Clamp option

5. Pipe Clamps

Pipe Clamps are most often used to clamp boards for edge gluing. They are quite literally metal pipes that have clamping mechanisms attached to hold wide spans of wood or other materials together. The great thing about pipe clamps is that you can find pipes of various lengths at a fairly low cost and use the same clamping mechanisms on all different lengths. The most common pipe clamp dimensions are ½ inch and ¾ inch diameters.

Similar to parallel clamps, pipe clamps can lie flat on a table top or floor to glue up very large projects. If you get the pipes cut in custom lengths, make sure to get the ends of the pipe threaded with NPT (National Pipe) threads to attach the pipe clamp fixtures to both ends. Pipe clamps are a very sturdy style of clamp that last.

Our Pick

Our Pick

Pony Jorgensen Pipe Clamp Fixture – 2 Pack

Purchasing the Pony Jorgensen pipe clamp fixtures allows you to use them with different lengths of pipe. Varied lengths pf pipe can be purchase from a local hardware store or have made custom. These pipe clamp fixtures come highly rated and are extremely useful for larger projects where you need to apply lots of pressure across a wide span.

Check Price on Amazon

Source: Jorgensen

Pros

1. Easy to use with different lengths of pipe depending on project needs
2. Pipes provide a flat surface to lay materials for glue ups
3. Multiple disc clutch for higher clamping pressure

Cons

1. Jaw of a pipe clamp has less surface area than a parallel clamp jaw to hold project in place
2. Sometimes the sliding clamp fixture can get stuck when sliding along the pipe 

6. Spring Clamps

Spring Clamps are some of your smaller clamps, often made from plastic that act as a spring loaded clip to hold a project in place. They have two jaws that clamp down on either side of the material and can easily be used with one hand. While they have come in handy borrowing some in a pinch, I have rarely ever used them in a shop setting so I’m sure there are others that have better explanations of when you might use them. 

Our Pick

Our Pick

Workpro 16-Piece Nylon Spring Clamp Set

This set of Workpro Nylon Spring Clamps is highly rated and will give you multiple size options with 6PC 3-3/8″ clamps, 6 PC 4-1/2″ clamps, and 4 PC 6-1/2″ clamps. This set is made with a durable nylon construction while remaining a lightweight clamp for ease of use.

Check Price on Amazon

Source: WorkPro

Pros

1. Multiple size options for greater versatility
2. Comfortably grip and squeeze with one hand
3. Robust spring tension with pivoting heads

Cons

1. Pads on the heads sometimes come off
2. Little control over the clamping force

7. C-Clamps

Sometimes C-Clamps are referred to as G-Clamps because of their shape when partially closed but we’ll go with C-Clamp. C-Clamps can generally reach further than F-Clamps because of their deeper throat. Their moveable jaw is threaded and the spacing between the open jaw varies from 1 inch to 11 + inches depending on the type of C-Clamp you get. Some are used to hold pieces of wood together or to a table and some are for holding metal for welding.  

Our Pick

Our Pick

Pony 6-in C-Clamp Set

I have seen other reviews of multiple C-Clamps and don’t hear a lot of difference between some of the bigger brands and older brands that generally made higher quality clamps that have lasted until now. That said, take a look at your needs and if you need a lot of clamping force for metal or machinery, then you might need to get something other than this Pony 6 inch clamp set. But for most use cases, they should be sufficient. I also have not spent too much time using C-Clamps unless there were no other options but I would use them for clamping down tools or machines in temporary locations.

Check Price on Amazon

Source: Jorgensen

Pros

1. Made of ductile iron for 1000 pound load strength
2. Comes in a pack of two for a better deal
3. Solid clamp for multiple applications – including holding tools or machinery in place temporarily

Cons

1. Some reviewers mention the thread is not always smooth
2. 6 inch size might not be enough for some use cases

Bonus:

There are some options for C-Clamps that are called locking C-Clamps versus the traditional C-Clamp with a threaded rod that you spin. Here are two options you can consider for this type. They use a spring to clamp down and lock in place and can be opened quickly with a trigger release.

• KOTTO 3 Packs Heavy Duty Locking C-Clamp Set, 6 Inch, 9 Inch and 11 Inch
• Nuovoware Premium Face Clamp, Locking C Clamp 3 Pack 6″ with Swivel Pads 

8. Quick-Action Clamps

Quick-Action Clamps are the most common type of bar clamps because they are lighter weight and can generally be used with one hand to tighten and release the clamp. Commonly known as trigger clamps, these clamps resemble how a caulking gun moves when squeezing the trigger because that’s where the inventors got the design idea from. They needed a one handed clamp while building a boat, so they made it. So if you need a one handed clamp, grab one of these.

I already picked the 24” Jorgensen Bar Clamp for my Bar Clamp pick so I’m going to pick two really good alternative options. 

Our Pick

Our Pick

Source: DEWALT

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DEWALT Bar Clamp 36-Inch

I have personal experience with the DEWALT Bar clamp and it is a great, versatile clamp. It’s light enough to use with one hand and applies up to 300 pounds of force while securely clamping your material with its removable jaws.

Check Price on Amazon

Bessey General Purpose Trigger Clamps, 2 x 6 In. and 2 x 12 In.

I like the idea of getting a set of these all at once because they are worth having multiples in a shop or on a jobsite. The Bessey Trigger clamps are a great option for a wide range of woodworking and cabinetry projects.

Check Price on Amazon

Source: Bessey

Pros

1. DEWALT – less expensive
2. DEWALT – easy switching to a clamp spreader
3. Bessey – very comfortable handle and high quality clamp
4. Bessey – comes in a set two different sizes

Cons

1. DEWALT – some talk about the bar bowing with greater clamping pressure
2. Bessey – more expensive so would recommend waiting for a sale on these

9. Corner Clamps

Corner Clamps are used to hold wood securely at a 90 degree angle when joining them together. You can use them for things like making picture frames and furniture or cabinet assembly. To be honest, I have never used one of these in my life and always used whatever was around or just held the wood with my hands before nailing or screwing the pieces together. But I can see the appeal of having a couple of these at your bench for an extra secure hand while joining certain pieces. 

Our Pick

Our Pick

Pony 2-Piece 90 Degree Corner Clamp Set

This Pony corner clamp has 2 countersunk mounting holes so you can securely fasten to a workbench. It allows you to join two pieces of wood with different thicknesses. I like that the clamping mechanism is on the outside of the project versus the other types that have the single threaded clamping rod that is on the inside of the 90 degree corner. An arm on the inside might get in the way depending on the size and type of your project.

Check Price on Amazon

Source: Jorgensen

Pros

1. Large 3 inch maximum opening
2. Can permanently mount on a bench with the mounting holes
3. Made of high-quality aluminum alloy

Cons

1. T-handle is secure but a little small to use
2. Some reviewers feel these are too light weight

10. Wood Hand screw Clamps

Wood Hand screw Clamps are best used for glue-ups of wide panels from multiple boards and applying focused pressure in the middle of wide assemblies during glue-up. They are great for holding small parts at the drill press or router table, keeping your fingers safely away from the bit. You can even use smaller sized wood hand screw clamps as stops on your router fence and drill press fence.

With the claws made out of wood, they are much softer than other clamps and are less likely to damage the surface. And one unique feature is that the claws can both pivot so you can clamp irregular angles.

Our Pick

Our Pick

Dubuque Wooden Jaw Hand Screw Clamp

The Dubuque Wooden Jaw Hand Screw Clamp is one of the last clamps to be manufactured in the USA. Made with high quality American maple, these wooden jaw hand screw clamps will last you a long time for many projects. They come in sizes ranging from 4 to 14 inches and are super smooth to use according to reviews.

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Source: LeeValley

Pros

1. High quality craftsmanship – made in the USA
2. American maple wooden jaws are strong yet gentle on projects
3. Thread rod is very smooth
4. Large handles allow great leverage

Cons

1. More pricey than other options

11. Band or Strap Clamps

Band clamps are great for securing awkwardly shaped projects. Often they are used for building wooden frames, drawers, or other smaller projects with angled joints. The great thing about a band clamp is that it can take just one clamp to hold multiple joints securely in place for a glue up. 

Our Pick

Our Pick

BESSEY 23 ft Variable Angle Strap Clamp

The Bessey Variable Strap Clamp is a great band clamp that provides even clamping pressure from both ends of the strap. Made of glass filled nylon, the clamp is very durable. Instead of fixed 90 degree corners, the Bessey Strap Clamp has four pivoting pressure pads that range from 60 to 180 degrees to securely clamp your project. Simply wrap the strap around your project, set up the pressure pads on the joints, remove the slack from the strap, and use the handle to tighten.

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Source: Bessey

“There is no reason to ever buy any other brand of clamp. Once you have used a Bessey you will never want anything else. It’s built well, easy to use and your project stays together with this clamp. I’ve given away or sold my cheap clamps and replaced them with Bessey. Well worth the price.” – User Review 

Pros

1. ‎Durable. Made of glass filled nylon.
2. A 23 foot strap gives lots flexibility for use
3. Works for a wide range of project shapes and sizes

Cons

1. Some people have issues with lining up the pads on their project
2. The crank on the side seems to be more flimsy than people expected

12. Toggle Clamps

Toggle Clamps are generally secured to a table or bench and used to secure a workpiece in order to perform some work on it. Their use cases are generally more specialized where a more common clamp with two jaws is not suitable. You can use a top-mounted toggle clamp to secure narrow workpieces while template-routing, pieces to a jig in order to cut tapers with the table saw, and securing a piece to a jig to cut tenons on end. 

Our Pick

Our Pick

BESSEY Horizontal Auto-Adjust Toggle Clamp

The Bessey Horizontal Auto-Adjust Toggle Clamp is great for these more specialized clamping use cases. With adjustable clamping force, the adjustment screw is used to adjust clamping pressure from 25 to 550 pounds. You can expect this toggle clamp to automatically adjust to different sized pieces of wood while maintaining the same clamping tension. Which means, you will not have to manually adjust the spindle height to use the same safe clamping power. It really is a unique feature that users of this Bessey toggle clamp love.

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Source: Bessey

Pros

1. Well built, lock securely, and has a great adjustment range
2. Maintains set clamping tension when clamping different size pieces
3. Great for specialized clamping uses where other clamps won’t do the job

Cons

1. On the larger side for toggle clamps so make sure they fit your use case
2. More expensive than some alternative options

13. Bench Clamps

When working with wood, often you’ll want to have a workpiece secured so you can work on it with both hands. Bench Clamps (or vices) are a metal clamping tool that are bolted to a workbench and are great for securing your workpiece with a larger moveable jaw. If you’re interested in a bench clamp, you’ll want to get one that has the gripping power you need to saw, chisel, plane and many other use cases. Most are made completely from cast iron but some have more gentle jaws made of wood you can attach to metal guide bars bolted to your workbench. 

Our Pick

Our Pick

Yost Vises Rapid Action Woodworking Vise with Quick Release Lever

The Yost Vises Rapid Action Woodworking Vise with Quick Release Lever is a reliable bench clamp option. Ranging from a 7 to 10 inch jaw width, this vise is perfect for both home carpentry and professional woodworking. Crafted from heavy-duty cast iron, it weighs 21 pounds, ensuring sturdiness during your projects. The quick-release lever allows for swift adjustments, making it more efficient to use than similar clamps. The buttress-threaded main screw provides a smooth operation, locking up the parallel jaws tightly to secure your work.

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Source: Yost

Pros

1. Budget-friendly choice for beginners
2. Very Sturdy: Built with heavy-duty cast iron, it provides a stable and durable clamping solution.
3. Quick Release Feature: The quick-release lever is not only convenient but also easier to use compared to other vise quick release mechanisms.
4. Jaws Are Parallel: Ensures a tight and secure grip on your workpiece. 

Cons

1. The weight of the vise might be a challenge during installation, especially for beginners.
2. Some buyers reported minor imperfections in the main screw, but it doesn’t hinder the smooth operation of the vise.

14. Face Clamps

Face clamps are commonly used for pocket hole joinery. This is where two pieces of wood are joined with screws through the face of one piece into the edge of another at an angle. The reason you might want to use a face clamp for this type of joint is the jaw face. They are generally round and large enough to cover the joint on both sides to keep them even when screwing the pieces together. Face clamp pressure can be adjusted by twisting a thumbscrew before clamping.

Our Pick

Our Pick

Kreg Wood Project Clamp with Automaxx, 3 Inch

For woodworkers, the Kreg 3” Wood Project Clamp with Automaxx is a handy tool to have in your workshop. This clamp is super easy to adjust and can accommodate materials up to 3 inches thick. The face clamp automatically adjusts to varied material thickness, and the padded handles provide comfort during use. With a convenient thumbscrew, you can easily adjust the face clamp pressure, and it ensures even pressure distribution for a secure hold.

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Source: Kreg

Pros

1. Adjusts to varied material thickness (without adjusting clamp pressure)
2. Can use with one hand
3. Padded handles for comfort
4. Works very well with Kreg pocket hole jigs

Cons

1. Some say it’s overpriced
2. Some users found it challenging to apply enough force to clamp down

“It’s a Kreg. I don’t think they do rubbish.. So these tools are in my “buy for life” category. Yes, a bit more expensive – but worth it.” – User Review

15. Spreader Clamps

Spreader clamps are ones that are able to flip around one of the jaws in order to apply pressure in reverse. This comes in handy to gently disassemble projects like drawers, cabinets, or other furniture. It can help start getting some separation going so you can insert a chisel or other wood to help work the pieces of the project apart. We like versatility so in this case, we’re going to go back to a clamp we’ve already covered in the Bar Clamp section. 

Our Pick

Our Pick

Jorgensen 24″ One Hand Clamp/Spreader – 2-pack, Medium Duty

For most reviews, the Jorgensen 24” One Hand Clamp/Spreader has been an absolute game-changer. The standout feature is its effortless transition from clamping to spreading, offering versatility in your projects. And that’s why this clamp is the top spreader clamp choice as well as the top bar clamp pick. The ability to join two clamps together for extended reach is a bonus, and with a load limit of 300 lbs, it can handle bigger projects.

The soft jaw pads provide a secure grip without damaging surfaces, making it a reliable choice for a variety of materials. One great use case I came across was to use this spreader clamp to push a curved baseboard in place to fit and measure and then for gluing.

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Source: Jorgensen

Pros

1. Can change over from a regular clamp to spreader clamp with ease
2. Doesn’t require a lot of hand strength for a secure hold
3. Joining two clamps together allows for extra reach, accommodating larger projects
4. The soft jaw pads ensure a firm grip without causing damage to your material

Cons

1. The release trigger’s position might make it easy to accidentally hit when trying to secure something
2. Some users shared these clamps don’t connect with smaller Jorgensen clamps, limiting their use

“I bought a set of these for my boyfriend for Christmas and he absolutely loves them. They are super easy to tighten and easy to release. These are also reversible so you can push things apart or pull it tight. My boyfriend uses them a lot and asked for another set for his birthday. Highly recommend.” – User Review 

Bonus: Best Clamp Racks

Clamp racks are always going to be a thing you’ll need as you begin acquiring a collection. There are so many good design ideas to make your own clamp racks and that’s what the majority of shops end up doing. But if you want something quick and not too expensive to get your clamps stored against a wall, here are a few options depending on the type you need. 

1. Rockler 24” Parallel Clamp Rack
2. Rockler HD Pipe Clamp Rack
3. Rockler Pipe Clamp Rack (24-5/8”) – Bar Clamp Rack to Store Clamps

These are all made by Rockler and they even have an article showing even more options to build your own.

Choosing the Right Woodworking Clamps for Your Projects

A. Assessing Your Specific Needs

When it comes to selecting the best woodworking clamps for your projects, start by assessing the specifics. Consider the range of project types and sizes you typically tackle—whether it’s delicate joinery or jobsite carpentry. Additionally, factor in the materials you frequently work with. Different clamps excel with varied materials, ensuring a tailored solution for every woodworking challenge.

B. Understanding the Importance of Versatility

Versatility is the name of the game in woodworking, and your choice of clamps should reflect that. The best woodworking clamps for your workshop are the ones that seamlessly adapt to the evolving demands of your projects. Look for clamps that offer adjustable features and can handle a variety of tasks, ensuring they become the versatile workhorses you can rely on for any woodworking project.

C. Budget Considerations

While the best woodworking clamps are no doubt an investment in the quality of your projects, it’s crucial to align your choices with your budget. Thankfully, there are excellent clamp options available at various price points. Prioritize essential features based on your needs, ensuring that you strike a balance between quality and cost-effectiveness to create a well-rounded collection.

D. Mixing and Matching Clamp Types for a Well-Rounded Collection

Think of your woodworking clamps as a diverse team with different strengths. To build a comprehensive collection, consider mixing and matching clamp types. Pair sturdy parallel clamps with agile F-clamps, and throw in a few specialized clamps for good measure. This strategic combination ensures you’re equipped with the best woodworking clamps for any scenario, creating a versatile toolkit for your home or job site projects.